4 Day Kimberley Gorges Safari with “Kimberley Wild”

 Left To Right (Standing) Ken, Danika, Gary(our Guide), Mary, Runa, Me. (Kneeling) Christina, Violet, Timmy, Jenny.

Wednesday 27^th August 2008

A 7.30am pick-up from Cable Beach Caravan Park and our driver, guide and cook, etc, for the 4 days (he didn’t know what he was letting himself in for) was Gary.  On board already were Timmy and Mary from Southern Ireland (on honeymoon), Danika from Broome who works for Tourist Information and friends Violet and Runa “the mad scientists” from Melbourne.  A quick stop at the Roebuck Plains Roadhouse to buy our drink requirements for the 4 days, cans of beer for me and a box of Chardonnay for Jenny, before driving to our first proper stop at the Willare Roadhouse for morning tea, the start of many amusing banters between Violet and Runa, Runa having a fear of birds and the resident rooster being fed under the table by Violet.  After a short stop in Derby to pick-up Ken from Perth and Christina, his friend from Venezuela, we joined the famous Gibb River Road and after about 60 kilometres left the smooth bitumen and drove on to the gravel (our road surface now for the rest of the tour).  We arrived at our first overnight camping ground Windjana Gorge, where Gary showed us how to erect our tents (easy for us “seasoned” campers) and distributed our swags, after organising our campsite we had a delicious lunch of cold cuts and salad before driving the 30 kilometres to our first gorge.  Tunnel Creek is a dramatic cave system which with the aid of torches we walked through looking at stalactites and other caves, wading through water which at this time of the dry season was only ankle to knee deep, we also learned the legend of Jandamarra an Aboriginal freedom fighter who used the tunnels as a hideout in the 19^th century.  After the 1 kilometre walk through the  tunnel we enjoyed a swim in the idyllic waterhole at the other end before retracing our steps back through the tunnel. Dinner as the sunset was a fantastic barbeque (including Kangaroo) and a great yarn with many laughs under the sparkling Kimberley night sky.

Thursday 28^th August 2008

After a good night’s sleep and an early breakfast we struck camp and drove to the majestic Windjana Gorge parking area, walking through a short tunnel into the gorge proper, Gary showing us different types of “bush tucker” on the way and some “rock art” which is alleged to have been there before the Aborigines and which look remarkably like alien figures.  A further walk up the gorge acquainted us with a close-up view of many Fresh Water Crocodiles sunning themselves on the sand at the waters edge, we would not have got up so close to these if they were “salties” but they seemed a docile bunch even with those menacing teeth showing either side of their mouths.  On the road again, stopping at a lookout with the King Leopold range in the distance and then later for a picnic lunch at the Imintji Aboriginal Community.  It amazes me that you can just “pull up” at these stores and roadhouses and use their toilets, tables, shaded areas etc and that all that is asked in return is that you buy a can of pop or a ice-cream, etc.  Galvins Gorge was our afternoon stop, a spring fed creek dropping over a waterfall into a large pool surrounded by trees.  Gary had promised Violet that if she jumped the 4 metres off the rock into the pool she could have some chocolate cake.  Gary went first followed by me, Danika and Runa, Violet went up and stood on the edge ready to jump, I was  treading water below to help her should she need it.  30 minutes later despite Runa and Gary standing next to her encouraging her to jump she was still on the edge,  finally after several aborted attempts we had to give in and help her back down from the rocks (quite difficult as they were very slippery), she did give us all a great laugh with her comments as she tried to pluck up courage to “take the plunge”.  Timmy managed to jump the first time he had attempted something like that and he really enjoyed it, Jenny elected to dive from a lower rock into the wonderful cool, clear water it was a great “freshen up” before our drive to the campsite near Mount Barnett Cattle Station beside a billabong.  Violet decided to sit up the front with Gary and he gave her the microphone, big mistake.  We laughed all the way to the campsite as she attempted???? to give us a commentary on the flora and fauna.  Tomorrow we walk to Manning Falls but first of all Spaghetti Bolognese for our dinner tonight and more yarns around the camp fire and yes, Violet did get her chocolate cake, for effort!

Friday 29^th August 2008.

We have been using just the inner of the tent without the flysheet, but we needed to get up just after going to bed to fix the flysheet over as it spotted with rain, the first we have seen since 10^th July, but we needn’t have bothered as it only lasted about 5 minutes, we could have counted the spots.  No showers at this campsite, not that we needed them as after breakfast we started our trek to Manning Falls, but first of all we had to swim over the billabong, there are several polystyrene boxes left at the side of the water to transport clothing and equipment over to the other side, no problem, but we decided to take the Jenny’s small camera with us, not risking taking the Nikon DSLR.  Next problem was that Mary doesn’t swim, luckily there are several car inner tubes left there so she sat inside one while Timmy pushed her across, whilst Gary pushed their box over.  It was at least a hour walk across the bush to the falls and despite the early hour it was already very hot so finally reaching the falls was very welcoming.  We were able to relax, explore and swim in a natural landscape and the water was a perfect temperature.  Only Gary had the nerve to jump off the high rocks here, even I, who would normally do it, deciding it was to high and elected to jump from a lower level with Danika, Jenny and I both swam underneath the falls for a very invigorating shower before drying off on the rocks.  This is Gary’s favourite  place and we can see why, the place was just stunning.  We then had the long walk back to Manning Falls campsite, already looking forward to the swim in the billabong when we arrived there and our lunch at the camp.  Whoops, Timmy took their polystyrene box over to a large rock in the centre while I pushed Mary across in a rubber ring, unfortunately when he got on the rock he slipped and plunged their box into the water, camera, phones and water don’t mix and it was a bit worrying for them, (luckily everything dried out at the campsite and worked).  Whilst Gary prepared lunch we stayed at the billabong having great fun in the car inner tubes all behaving (well me, Violet and Runa) like 10 year olds, splashing each other and playing dodgems we had a great laugh especially Violet (it could only be Violet) getting her bum stuck in the tube, (she has since told me it was her a__e that was stuck and to put that on the website).  After lunch we drove to our next destination Adcock Gorge a short walk of just a kilometre from the parking area only Jenny, Gary, Timmy and Violet deciding they needed a further wash (the fourth of the day) and swimming in the waterhole at the base of the waterfall (which was a mere trickle this late in the dry).  Camp tonight is at Silent Grove (was Silent Grove, see below) a National Park camping ground with flush toilets and showers (albeit cold, correction, cold water is never cold up here). Thai Chicken Curry for dinner expertly cooked by Gary and assisted by Jenny and Timmy and chocolate cake for dessert. Strange things sometimes happen, Runa and I were looking at the stars and having a long conversation on other life forms in space, aliens, area 51 etc, but because the smoke from the campfire was blowing in our direction we moved to the opposite side. We had only been sitting down about 15 minutes when Danika shouted “look”, a shooting star was crossing the sky behind us, not a split second look either it was there for a few seconds, Danika had even seen a piece break off it, we have seen a few shooting stars in these clear skies up in the north but this sight was really something.  It was also weird that shortly afterwards a wind sprang up (Jenny and I were just going to use our swags and not sleep in the tent but there was a lot of dust).  Runa and I suggested it was an alien landing after our earlier conversation.  We sat around the campfire until quite late toasting marshmallows  and  I could write a comedy on the next hour of entertainment, Violet attempting to sing songs from the “Sound of Music” complete with a dance routine, we were all laughing so much  tears were rolling down our faces.  It would have to have been seen to be believed, a great night and we were still laughing when we went to bed.

Saturday 30^th August 2008

We left Violet Grove (renamed by us as it could no longer be called Silent Grove), and drove 10 kilometres to Bell Gorge another fantastic place, we walked along a dry creek bed before crossing  the top of the falls and descending to the swimming holes at the bottom.  A great swim and a relax on the flat rocks nearby was over all to quickly and we made our way back to the bus, the Oranges and Rock Melon provided by Gary being most welcome after the swim and walk.  It was time to make our way back to Broome stopping at Lennard River Store for lunch and to use the strangest toilet we have ever used (enough said).  Violet had us all laughing again as we drove along the Gibb River Road, we played “I Spy” with Violet making the rules up as she went along and she did a bit of singing???? as well!  After a further stop at Willare Roadhouse where I presented Gary with a photographic book of the Kimberley’s and gave a short speech thanking him on behalf of all the group.  It was Gary’s last tour before he continues around Australia in a motorhome with his wife Sue, (he had only intended staying in Broome for a week, 18 months ago!).  6:00 pm saw us back at Cable Beach Caravan Park and we said our goodbyes to the rest of the group, but not for long, we are all meeting for dinner tomorrow night at the “Sunset” on Cable Beach.

Sunday 31^st August 2008

First task this morning was hanging the washing out that Jenny did as soon as we arrived back last night, the red sand is renowned for its staining of clothes so more than one wash will be required before the “whites are white”.  I have also started writing up the web pages of our adventures in the Kimberley’s which is always more difficult when there are a few days to catch up on, made even more difficult by trying to decipher my scrawled notes when writing as we drove along the many bumps, troughs and corrugations of the Gibb River Road.  Woolworth’s was our next job, filling with fuel (which as reduced in price) and provisioning for the next 6 days, coincidently we met Ken and Christina in there and had a bit of a yarn with them, they were pleased to see us as our original intention was to leave Broome today for Fitzroy Crossing, but we have decided to stay the extra night so we can go out to dinner with our “tour friends” tonight.  After a short drive to look at Broome Port (which was not very interesting) we drove back to the caravan site to get ready for our meal.  The “Sunset” restaurant and bar is only a 10 minute walk away from the caravan park so we were able to walk, Danika and her boyfriend Justin were already there with Gary and his wife Sue (originally from Newcastle, UK) and the rest of the group arrived shortly afterwards, we had a good night and the meal was first class, it was great to be able to see them before we all went our separate ways.  Like our Cape York group we were lucky to have met some wonderful people and we had some great laughs.  Thank you, Christina, Danika, Gary, Ken, Mary, Runa, Timmy and Violet for making our Kimberley safari an unforgettable experience.  The evening was rounded off nicely by Violet showing Jason and Sue her “Sound of Music” routine, again she had us all “in stitches”, what a fantastic girl she is and we won’t forget her in a hurry (we can’t actually because we are hopefully meeting up with Violet and Runa “ the mad scientists” in Kununurra on Saturday).

Monday 1^st September 2008

Fitzroy Crossing, 18 12 52 S, 125 35 02 E, (399 Km).  An early start today as we need to catch up a day if we want to stay at Parry Creek Farm again.  By 10 am it was 32 degrees the weather has got very much hotter in the last few days and there are more clouds in the sky, the dry season is almost at an end and from now on it will get hotter and more humid in the build up to the wet season.  We only stopped once at the Boab Tree Rest Area our overnight stop of a few days ago and we were only 2 kilometres from Fitzroy Crossing when the wets arrived!  We had seen some blackening clouds for a few kilometres and suddenly the heavens opened and we were deluged with heavy rain, Jenny was driving at the time so we pulled over and waited for it to ease, I eventually drove us the short distance to the camp site through large puddles of water, tactics on my part as it was Jenny that got soaked going in to the camp site reception to book in, the rain didn’t last long and were are back to sunshine before long, just enough time to brush some of the dirt off the van with the broom while it was still wet.

Note: you may remember us writing about a “mini tornado” on the way to Broome, we saw another one today, evidently they are called “Willy Willy’s” and are caused by very hot air creating a strong wind, I will have to “google” to find out more information about them.

Tuesday 2^nd September 2008

Dunham River Rest Area, 16 09 10 S, 128 21 56 E, (569 Km).  Reading in bed last night it was hot and humid after the rain storm and I thought Jenny had put her clammy hand on my arm, on looking down a pair of large black eyes were peering up at me, now Jenny’s eyes are brown and her skin is certainly not green……..  The large Green Tree Frog was rapidly placed on a plastic lid and put outside!  Today we have done the longest distance driving since the start of our trip, Jenny starting off driving until smoko at Ngumban Lookout and then I drove the rest of the way, stopping Mary Pool Rest Area for lunch, then at Halls Creek for a ice-cream and 6 pack of beer, I don’t drink that much but we do get invited to a happy hour on occasions and don’t like to be without some in the van.  We also refuelled at Turkey Creek, not filling right to the brim as we normally do because diesel has reduced in price over the last week, but not apparently there.  The intention then was to free camp at the next rest area just 16 kilometres away, unfortunately it was closed for bridge works so we drove to the next one about 70 kilometres further east.  By then we were driving in the dark,  something we try to avoid doing because of the risk of hitting animals, Kangaroo’s , Cattle, Wild Pigs etc however other than bats zooming past and what we both thought was a cat (unlikely but that’s what it looked like), I reduced speed and we reached the rest area just after 6pm, this was a night when we would have used the air-conditioning if we were on a power site, as it was still 28 degrees C at 9:00 pm and very sticky, but thankfully no more frogs!

Wednesday 3^rd August 2008

Parry Creek Farm Resort, 15 35 79 S, 128 16 69 E, (81 Km).  A very short drive this morning to Parry Creek, we enjoyed the relaxing time we spent here a couple weeks or so ago, so much we both wanted to return again and it is only about 60 kilometres of extra distance.  We were warmly welcomed again by Rebecca and Alex (the Liverpool Fan) and also the owner Justin who has kindly lent me a pile of Photography Magazines (the one I normally buy when in the UK) which had been bought over by one of his guests.  Justin explained to us about this “build up” to the wet season, it looks as if it has come early this year as it is so much hotter, cloudier and the humidity  has increased, normally this happens at the end of September not the beginning.  We also saw a notice yesterday at Turkey Creek Roadhouse that the Bungle Bungle was closed due to heavy overnight rain and with more expected, even here the weather looks as though it can be “Topsy  Turvey”.  Well time for our own “happy hour” Wine, Savouries, and Salsa  we also have a guest tonight (not that we remember sending an invite), Sandy the resident Kangaroo.

Thursday 4^th August 2008

We are doing precisely what we intended to do here at Parry Creek……..nothing.  Not quite true as I got up a 6:00 am hoping to see a Gouldian Finch at the small waterhole on the camp site but evidently none have been seen now for 6 days, still there was plenty of activity around the water, including my first close-up of  Red-winged Parrot, so I was not disappointed, especially when Jenny joined me with a cup of tea.  We just sat reading after a late shower and breakfast, Alex brought over the sports section of an Australian newspaper which had got some UK football snippets in so I was able to get up to date with some of the happenings in the Premiership.  We also went up to the reception and had Coffee and Banana Cake, plus a yarn with Rebecca, it is very quiet here now at the “back end” of the dry season in fact there are only 3 other people camping here so we all have room to spread out (we actually have a shower cubicle each, although I share mine with a Geckco and Jenny shares with 2 Green Tree Frogs).  We also had the swimming pool to ourselves this afternoon it was particularly refreshing as it is so hot today and not a cloud in the sky, unlike yesterday, we also cooled our insides as well with an ice-cream.  This evening (6:45 pm as I write) we are enjoying sitting outside and are just about to have our evening meal and so far the flying insects have not been a nuisance, (driven off probably by Jenny’s cooking), Bon appetite.

Friday 5^th September 2008

Another relaxing day at what we rate as the best bush camp and location  we have stayed on, the one thing we needed to do today was to clean the interior of the van from top to bottom as we seem to have dust in every nook and cranny, mostly from the 3 days it was parked at Turkey Creek (for our Bungle Bungle tour) next to a dirt road.  It took us almost 4 hours to empty every cupboard and locker, brush and wipe them out and then put everything back, we also dry shampooed the cushions which again took time.  The afternoon we spent in the shade reading and planning the next few days of our travels, we have dined out this evening at the restaurant, “Prawns with hornsHornsHorns” for me (Prawns and Rump Steak) and Kimberley Grill this time for Jenny (Kangaroo Fillet, Buffalo Sausage and Crocodile Rissole) both of them were delicious and not expensive.  Tomorrow we return once again to Kununurra we will be able to catch up on emails there and also grocery shop before continuing to Katherine in Northern Territory for our drive “down the centre”.

Saturday 6^th September 2008

Kununurra, 15 46 22 S, 128 43 82 E, (93 Km).  A tinge of sadness this morning as we left Parry’s  Creek Farm Resort, we could have stayed there forever, it was so comfortable, peaceful and the people were great hosts.  We were in Kununurra in just over a hour and are staying at Ivanhoe Village Holiday Park the same camping ground as our previous visits, even on the same site (easy walk to the amenities and we know we can obtain wireless internet).  We did have a short drive to the town for a few grocery’s, fuel and exchange a paperback book at the café, before chilling out in the shade of a large eucalypt tree complete with resident lizard (the same one as last time as he answered to his name “Olukalizard”).  “The Mad Scientist” Runa and Violet were arriving today, however they have been delayed a day, Runa saying “she has got a story to tell for our website”, goodness knows what they (or probably Violet) have been up to, can’t wait to find out as we are having a barbeque with them tomorrow.

Sunday 7^th September 2008

A relaxed day after a late night.  It was the end of the football season in Kununurra and they had a concert in the paddock opposite the campsite so we listened to it (we had no choice really) until the last act at about 11:30 pm, a female singer who sounded terrible.  As water is not a consideration on this camp site (they actually ask you to move their sprinklers around) I disconnected the one nearest to us and gave the van a good wash down after the dusty ground at Parry’s Creek and the “spring clean” of the inside the van looks like new.  “The Mad Scientist” arrived at 6:30 pm and while Jenny and Runa grilled steak and snags on the camp barbeque, Violet and I prepared the salad.  We could not believe their reason for arriving a day late and I would have preferred either Runa or Violet to write this next part.  Only this pair could drive all day a total distance of  800 kilometres and end up just 40 Kilometres from whence they came!  Now they are both intelligent girls, Runa a Forensic Scientist and Violet a Scientist in artificial skin for burn patients ,etc.  They could argue they hadn’t got a map, but there is only one main road out of Broome to the Roebuck Roadhouse, just after the roadhouse the road continues  straight  to Derby and Fitzroy Crossing (their intended destination) and there is a right turn to Port Headland, yes, this is the one they took, (despite going along and returning from Derby on the Kimberley tour).  They were now driving South instead of  North East, despite the sun being on the wrong side of their car, doubt did come in to their minds after a time but they had convinced themselves they were still on the correct road………Until they saw a signpost for 80 Mile Beach, now the one feature the highway to Fitzroy Crossing definitely doesn’t have is a beach, bush, grass and savannah, yes, even dry creek beds with pebbles and sand in them which one could perhaps misconstrue as beach, yes, but beach means ocean and 80 Mile Beach suggests plenty of it.  Doubt was really coming to the fore now, so they pulled into a roadhouse, Violet went in and asked the lady whether it was the correct road to Fitzroy Crossing to which the lady replied that it was, der, (she must have been one fish short of a shoal herself).  But she asked the chef in the back to confirm it, he came out and beckoned Violet over to the road map on the wall, and pointed to where they were and where they should have been, Violet said the colour drained from her face and she went outside to tell Runa,  “$%)*?:@£%”&^%!£* hell” was Runa’s reply (or something along those lines).  It was a very quiet drive back 400 kilometres to the Roebuck Roadhouse where they stayed the night.  We did have a great meal with them and we obviously had a few laughs, we were also joined by Rob, we had met Rob twice at roadhouses on the Kimberley tour and we all had a good yarn with him, we knew he would be in Kununurra at the same time and coincidently Jenny bumped into him in our campsite laundry and we invited him for a drink after our meal he listened to the story of the “lost girls” he couldn’t believe it either.  We may bump in to Rob again as he his heading to Mataranka and will probably be there at the same time as us, Runa and Violet we will see again in Melbourne their home city in October, we know we will be there then, whether they will be is another matter!!!

Note: Tomorrow we are back in the Northern Territory, join us in Travelogue II as we continue down “The Red Centre”