Cape York

From Left to Right: (standing) Me, Keith, Ian, Pat, Grace, Mick, Lin, Pam, Allan, Tom. (kneeling) Chocko, Lyn, Jenny.

Monday 23^rd June 2008

Cairns - Hann River. Chocko picked us up at Cairns Discovery Resort at 7:00 am, little did we know at that time that an early morning “wake up” at this time would be the “norm” for the next 2 weeks.  We arrived at the Billy Tea Depot where we met the other members of our tour.  Lyn from Catton between Ipswich and Toowoomba, Queensland, Keith and Pat from Wagga Wagga, NSW, Grace and Ian from Lake Munmorah, NSW, Lin and Mick from Port Kennedy, WA, Allan and Pam (who we met the previous day as they were staying at the same place as us) from Surfers Paradise, Queensland, Terry from Cairns, Queensland and Tom also from Cairns. Whilst we drank tea and coffee and ate sausage rolls and cake, Chocko, our guide, cook and driver briefed us on our journey North.  Today would be the longest daily mileage of the entire trip so we were soon on the road climbing up to the Atherton Table Lands, stopping at intervals to enjoy Photo opportunities including “Split Rock” an Aboriginal rock art site.  The first incidents of the trip occurring here, Allan tripping and cutting his knee (Allan’s a doctor so he administered his own first-aid) and Jenny falling on to her…………well on to her…………backside and sustaining a very colourful bruise.  Although the road was mostly bitumen (tarmac to UK people) we did have several long sections of gravel, I think Chocko was leading us in gently for the many stages of gravel to follow.  Having arrived at Hann River Roadhouse, Chocko showed us how to erect our tents, issued us with our sleeping bags and airbeds, which were our own property for the duration of the tour, dinner tonight Spaghetti Bolognese prepared by Marilyn of Billy Tea and cooked for us by Chocko.  This was to be the start of Chocko’s many culinary delights, but more of that later.

Tuesday 24^th June 2008

Hann River – Archer River Roadhouse. After a yarn (Aussie for chat) with Laura the manager at Archer River Roadhouse we continued North stopping at Musgrave Telegraph Station for tea and a Lamington (look it up) before continuing to Coen for lunch. We arrived at Archer River Roadhouse earlier than at Hann River yesterday and obviously we were quicker getting organised and we were able to have time for a short walk down to the Archer River for photo opportunities. Ian attempting to sieve for gold with his hands, however he didn’t make his fortune. We had a delicious Roast Beef dinner with vegetables and sweet potato. Tom who was a old bushman amusing us with a story of when he was using a metal detector had a positive reading, dug down for ages, only to find it was coming from his titanium knee! Tonight was a good deal warmer than last night and we were able to have the sides of the tent open and able to look through the mosquito netting from our sleeping bags at the star lit sky.

Thursday 26^th June 2008

Heathland Ranger Station – Loyalty Beach. My turn to be in the front passenger seat this morning, we are taking turns alphabetically morning and afternoon, hopefully I should have some good camcorder footage as leaving Heathland’s we had 2 other major creeks to cross Cockatoo Creek and Sailor Creek both with large potholes in the creek bed before reaching the picturesque Sheldon Lagoon where Fresh-water Tortoises live, hopefully I have some good photographs of the reflection of the trees in the lagoon as the water was so still. Next, Fruit Bat Falls and wonderful place for a relax, swim and morning tea and cake. I didn’t swim, instead took photographs of the falls and river  (no, the water was not to cold). Lunch was at the Jardine Ferry the Jardine River being a major river flowing into the Coral Sea on the west side of the peninsular, no swimming here as there are Salt-water Crocodiles in residence (although they were not at home when we crossed). We reached Bamaga Airport (formerly Jackie Jackie Airfield a WWII site) visiting 2 aircraft wrecks in the vicinity a DC3 and a Bristol Beufighter) It is a reminder how strategically important this area was to the defence of Australia from the Japanese. Tonight we are at Loyalty Beach overlooking the Torres Straits our “base camp” for 3 nights, from which we will reach “The Tip”.

Friday 27^th June 2008

A breezy night and hammering of tent pegs could be heard, plus the occasional swear word, (bit hazy on this bit because it was the middle of the night, but I think Ian and Grace had difficulty keeping it erect!). Excitement this morning as we journey to “The Tip” first stop however was for a walk to Lake Bronto a perched lake, reminding us of the lakes on Fraser Island, it looked very inviting for a swim, except Chocko reminded us that large lizards (“Salties”) live there. A picnic lunch today, we made sandwiches before leaving the camp and eat at Somerset Beach a historic site and former residence of the Cape Government. At last, the whole point of the tour and the Cape travellers ultimate destination the short walk over the sand and rocks to “The Tip”. Congratulations and handshakes all around and a photographic session as we stood around the sign which says “YOU ARE STANDING ON THE MOST NORTHERNMOST POINT OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT” and on the other side 10 degrees 41.41’ South Lat – 142 degrees East Long. We stopped at the “Croc Tent” on the way back to Loyalty Beach a souvenir shop tent owned by Terry and Devitta. Terry showing us photographs and explaining the life they have there on Cape York and their “retreat” back to Cairns when the “wets” arrive, taking with them all their belongings including the tent! Ian and Grace’s tent had collapsed during the day so their first job was to re-erect it. Dedication to duty followed about 30 minutes later when Ian was preparing vegetables…………Yes you’ve guessed the tent was again on the floor and he did not leave his post but continued until he had finished the “veggies” despite Grace explaining it was getting dark. However, we all came up with the same solution, drag the tent with everything in it off the sandy ground to the firmer ground higher up where the tent pegs would stay in, so with one of us at each corner we duly moved their house, Grace complained afterwards that it was the second time she had had to tidy and straighten the tent, some unkind soul suggested that her housekeeping was not up to standard anyway!

Saturday 28^th June 2008

We had all decided to take the optional day tour to Thursday Island and Horn Island in the Torres Straits so a early start to catch the 8:00 am daily ferry “Strait Magic” from Seisia a short distance from our campsite. Thursday Island our first destination is approximately 30 kilometres North the Tip of Cape York and approximately 130 kilometres from Papua New Guinea. T.I, as it is known by the locals, is the administrative centre for the Torres Strait Islanders. We had a “whistle stop” tour of the island with our guide Sue, driving us up to Green Hill Fort from which a commanding view of both the island, the other many islands and the shipping channels can be seen. We then sailed across the short passage to Horn Island where Vanessa our guide took us to the WWII sites on the island. Horn Island was also a important airbase during the war with Japan and has the dubious distinction of being one of only 2 places to be bombed in Australia the other being Darwin, several aircraft wrecks are on the island, including a P47 Thunderbolt in which a pilot took of from the airbase, flew to low, hit 2 Kittyhawks on the runway, which caused them to collide with a third Kittyhawk. The aircraft lays in the spot where it landed in 1944, the pilot escaped with minor injuries. After a buffet meal we returned for the ferry to Thursday Island for our subsequent return ferry to Seisia, We sat at the rear of the ferry on the way back and with the wind and waves Jenny won the “Wet T Shirt Competition” most of the others electing to sit in the cabin. A great surprise on our return Terry had recovered from his sickness and had flown up from Cairns to Bamaga and was able to continue with us. It was interesting he explaining his journey back to Cairns in the Post Plane and the Cattle Stations, Homesteads, etc he had landed at and the refreshments and sandwiches that welcomed them.

Sunday 29^th June 2008

Loyalty Beach – Twin Falls. A short drive today re-crossing the Jardine River and reaching Twin Falls on the Elliot River before lunch. We erected our tents in the bush campsite, the first real bush camp on the trip and surrounded by forest.  Chocko showed us “The Saucepan” swimming hole, Elliot Falls and Twin Falls and after lunch we all descended on Twin Falls standing under the fast flowing torrent coming over the falls in the surprisingly warm water having a yarn and relaxing in the sandy shallows, no croc’s here as it is impossible for them to climb over the falls, (so we are told). I decided to take the opportunity to take photographs of the falls, experimenting with different shutter speeds and exposures, Jenny meanwhile went for another swim with Grace and Pat, after their swim they looked for somewhere private to change, Pat found what looked like an ideal tree to hang her clothes on, not realising she had disturbed an ants nest, she was immediately covered in ants and tried to brush them off, Jenny suggested she would be better if she went back to the water, which she did at 90 mile a hour, Jenny and Grace picked up her clothes and towel which she had thrown off and met her at the boardwalk, they decided to change back at camp. While we were sitting around the camp, there was a tremendous shout, “ALLAN!!”  from “lady” Pam, I thought it was something serious, however Pam had decided to rest in the tent.  Allan had zipped the tent up and Pam had woken up and could not find the way out. I don’t think she was amused, I was!

Monday 30^th June 2008

Our second day at Twin falls and although there are toilets at the camping ground there are not any showers so Jenny and I went down to Twin Falls (a 5 minute walk) early and “skinny dipped”, because we were in a National Park you are not allowed to use soap in the rivers so a swift rub down with the wonderfully clean sand from the pools was a excellent substitute. Chocko had managed to purchase 4 dozen fresh eggs so for the first time we enjoyed a cooked breakfast of bacon and scrambled eggs (not that we were not enjoying cereal, fruit and toast). By coincidence Grace had found a old friend at a campsite further along the track and both Grace and Ian went to see them before breakfast, they came back with more eggs as their old friends kept poultry, now the only way I don’t like eggs cooked is scrambled so when Chocko put them on the hotplate over the camp fire (just like on the fireman’s shovel in the steam engine era) I was first in the queue for one, delicious. After breakfast we walked to Canal Creek, most taking their swimmers whilst I took my camera. Chocko amused everybody by rolling in the white mud at the side of the creek, everybody else following suit, it is said to be very good for the body, certainly it is an excellent exfoliant. Chocko spoiled us today by baking cakes, how anybody can produce such food over an open fire is beyond me, the food we are enjoying is really outstanding the only complaint being everybody is putting on weight! He bet we could not finish the cakes he had baked, he won, still that’s means there’s some left for tomorrow.

Tuesday 1^st July 2008

Twin Falls – Bramwell Station.  We all decided to disband the campsite first this morning, go for a swim at Twin Falls and then have breakfast, it worked really well and we were on the road quite early. Spotting one of the more unusual Australian birds the Bustard, it really was a bit of a Bustard not allowing us to get close enough for a decent photograph, despite Chocko driving “across country” in pursuit, Bustard 1 Billy Tea 0. We stopped for a morning “smoko” (no, nobody smokes on this trip, nice eh) and finished the cake off, Lyn sneaked a piece for later, which I helped her eat. We also spotted a Wild Pig which live on the peninsula, I am sure Chocko would have roasted him on a spit if we could have caught him as they are regarded as vermin, damaging vegetation etc. The next stop was at Captain Billy Landing a historic place where we strolled along the beach looking for evidence of Crocodile tracks (to no avail), Mick did find a large empty plastic container that had been washed up and while we had lunch in the picnic shelter we all signed it and hung it up with all the other flotsam and jetsom that ordained the shelter. We had the luxury tonight of not having to erect our tents, as at Bramwell Station they have tents already erected which we were able to use (Ian and Grace were relieved)! A delicious curry was cooked for us tonight, how does he do it? A bit of excitement was caused after dinner (we even abandoned our sweet) by a Spotted Cus Cus, which was seen in a tree close to us, alas nobody could get decent photograph of it.

Wednesday 2^nd July 2008

Bramwell Station – Weipa. Further excitement for us this morning was the sight of a Palm Cockatoo (Australia’s largest Cockatoo) in the tree above the camp, I felt privileged to see this bird as people come from all over the world in the hope of spotting one. We also had a visit from Blue Kookaburra which posed for us, less desirable was a Red-backed Spider which was on the wood we had collected yesterday, still he made for a decent photo before being despatched by Chocko’s boot! Tom and Terry who both sleep in swags complained about the noisy Fruit Bats arguing in the tree above that woke them very early, could have been worse as they were sleeping in a open shelter with a roof, at least they weren’t deposited on. Tom who for many years was a tour guide on the Cape gave us a very interesting commentary as we left on the history of Bramwell Station and the different owners. We are all delighted that Tom is with us as what he doesn’t know about the Cape is not worth knowing anyway and together with Chocko’s knowledge we have learnt such a lot about the Cape York Peninsula. It was a fairly short drive today, nevertheless in 2 days we have crossed from the East Coast of the Peninsular and the Coral Sea to the West Coast and The Gulf of Carpentaria. We did have an unscheduled stop when a snake was seen on the road, Chocko doing a three point turn to find it, we nearly lost it as a Kite was making off with it, luckily he dropped it. On investigation Tom identified it as a Taipan (one if not the world’s most venomous) unfortunately or fortunately which ever way you look at it, the snake was the victim of a vehicle tyre. Personally I would not like to see such a beautiful creature dead, but that’s my opinion. Having arrived at Weipa at lunch time we had time to book on the town and mine tour which was quite interesting giving us an insight on why Weipa is “on the map”, there is even a Woolworth’s that is supplied once a week by barge Weipa is the site of the world’s largest Bauxite mine (the main component for the manufacture of aluminium) which is operated by Rio Tinto Alcan (now you know where your aluminium food wrapping originates, bet you didn’t know that before you read our website). Lamb Stew and Damper tonight, the meals just get better and better, we get fatter and fatter!

Thursday 3^rd July 2008

Weipa – Musgrave Roadhouse. The longest distance to travel today apart from our first day, stopping for a “ Smoko” at a lake before reaching Archer River Roadhouse. We purchase our own lunch today, Jenny having a meat pie and I had a steak burger, we were advised by Chocko not to have their famous “Archer burger” as he bet we could not finish it, however I did notice he had one, it was about a foot high!  He even shared some chips with Tom. We arrived at Musgrave Roadhouse late afternoon and decided to camp in the corner of the paddock (UK = field).  It was quite picturesque near a small lake, at least it was picturesque until 3 Freshwater Crocodiles came on the scene, however they were “Freshies” and not “Salties”, Pat and Grace were worried as they were nearest to the waters edge and had faced their tents doors towards the lake. Tom and Chocko told them not to worry as they are comparatively harmless. Question: Why was this the only night that Chocko put his Mosquito Net and Swag on the roof of the truck and slept up there? Tom had spotted some Galahs in the next paddock so he and I went walkabout to photograph them also managing to catch a young Wallaby feeding near the other lake. It is great talking to Tom as he is full of knowledge and I would have had difficulty in spotting some of the birds on the trip, never mind identifying them if it wasn’t for Tom’s input. We are also fortunate in having Terry with us as he has an impressive knowledge of the Fauna, plus as he is also interested in photography he points out different photo opportunities to me. We both tonight taking photographs of an old windmill as dusk approached.

Friday 4^th July 2008

Musgrave Roadhouse – Kalpowar, Lakefield National Park. Despite the concern with the crocodile’s everybody had a full complement of limbs this morning. Lakefield National park is our destination today only about a 100 kilometre drive so Chocko will drive slowly and hopefully we should see some of the animals and birds that abound there. We were away quite early from the campground (before the croc’s woke up) and the first bird we saw was a Nightjar unfortunately the victim of a vehicle, this didn’t stop Tom taking a photo of it (bit of a competition he has with his daughter) and the way it was positioned made it look alive anyway. Made me think of the guy on Fraser Island who didn’t see a Dingo to photograph so he took a photo of one on a notice board. We did see lots of different creatures including, Wild Pig, Dingo, Magpie Geese, Goanna and a Red-bellied Black Snake. We stopped at Hann river for lunch and as I walked down to the waters edge was lucky enough to spot a Saltwater Crocodile however he soon made himself scarce only Keith seeing the swirl as he went under. Another idyllic campsite tonight at Kalpowar Crossing on the Normanby River, a National Park campsite with toilets and showers heated by solar, however they were still cold. As there was no light pollution I thought I would attempt photographing the stars as it was a moonless night and the view of the stars was stunning, not a complete success as I think light had come in from a campfire but it was a interesting experiment and one I will try it again.

Saturday 5^th July 2008

Kalpowar – Cooktown. Chocko was determined to find us a big crocodile today but despite his efforts they were elusive, seeing them not being helped by people camping near some of the better locations, It being quite funny at 8 mile Creek when we quietly got out of the truck, stealthily walked about 300 metres up a track towards the river only for 4 dogs to come bounding towards us barking like mad, that was the end of us stalking a crocodile, their owners who were camping nearby must have thought the whole of Queensland’s  population had arrived. We had a short stop at “The Old Laura Homestead” a site of a old homestead fallen into ruins, it was interesting wandering about near the house and other building and there was an informative display of old photographs, building plans as well as other historical information. After a further stop for photographs at Isobella Creek Falls we finally arrived at Cooktown. We are being spoilt for our last night under canvas as we are staying at the Big4 Holiday Park with the luxury of individual toilet and shower rooms. After lunch Chocko took us on a tour of Cooktown, Tom taking over the commentary as he was born and lived there, in fact his sister still lives there.  Grassy Hill was our first stop where the lighthouse is situated and from where an almost 360 degree view is seen of the Coral Sea and the mountain ranges we have this morning been driven through. Chocko then dropped us at the Museum (were the anchor of Captain Cook’s ship the Endeavour is on display)  We all had a further look around the small township before Chocko picked us up to go back to the campsite.  Tonight was our farewell dinner at the RSL (Returned Servicemen’s League) club and a great time we had too, being all the more special as it is “lady” Pam’s birthday tomorrow and Allan had arranged Cake and Champagne after our meal.  Chocko presented us with our certificates for reaching “The Tip” Mick thanked Chocko on behalf of everyone and Chocko responded by saying we were one of the best groups he had taken up Cape York.

Sunday 6^th July 2008

Cooktown – Cairns.  The last time we will disband the camp this morning, we are that practised at it we take no time at all and are soon eating our breakfast.  Croc hunting first thing this morning at the bend in the Annan River where big croc’s are occasionally spotted but again no luck.  We continued towards Cairns stopping a Black Mountain Lookout and then at a real Australian Pub “The Lion’s Den Hotel” for coffee, every surface in the place is covered with graffiti, T shirts, business cards, postcards, caps all signed by  people that had passed through, made for an interesting stop and the coffee was great to.  Next stop was to use the “dunny” at Weary Bay, the name of the dunny “Windy Loo”.  We also had a short photo’ stop at a waterfall  who’s name I forgot to write down (perhaps a member of our group will  enlighten me) Chocko emptied the surplus fresh water in the trailer to assist us in the climb over the Donovan and Cowie Ranges on the Bloomfield Track. (It would have helped more if he had not fed us so well)  The first incident with the truck happened after we had crossed Emmagen Creek a rock got wedged between the twin wheels on the rear, however a bit of skill from Chocko, Terry and Tom and we were soon on our way, almost minus two members of the group (it could only have been Jenny and Grace), they hadn’t expected the problem with the truck to be fixed so quickly so decided to visit a tree, a lavatree.  We were soon at Cape Tribulation the farthest point Jenny and I reached in 2005 and were now back on bitumen and civilisation.  We had an unscheduled stop at a café before reaching the Daintree River Ferry, Tom had arranged with his daughter, on our behalf to purchase a book for Chocko in Cairns and for one of the other “Billy Tea” drivers to drop it off at the café for us to collect. Pat made the presentation when we stopped at a home-made ice cream shop further up the road.  Chocko was delighted with the book (Birds of Australia, which Tom new he would like) and was speechless and quite overcome at the time.  We arrived back in Cairns and Terry, Mick and Lin were dropped off at their requested places, not before we had arranged to meet Monday night for a “get together” (see Queensland II). Jenny and I needed to return to the “Billy Tea” depot to collect some things so Chocko dropped off the trailer at the same time.  Grace and Ian were next at their campsite and then Allan, Pam, Jenny and I at the Discovery Resort.  Chocko is an avid Jaguar and F1 fan and had seen our “Jaguar” rucksack which we had left at the depot and asked us where we had got it, we emptied the contents into a sack and presented it to him, he was so overwhelmed we thought he was going to cry!  We said our goodbye’s to Tom who would be unable to come to the Monday get together and checked back into the hotel, looking forward to Monday to see our new friends again.

Conclusion

We said on the website on the Sunday before we left for Cape York that we hoped it would be the highlight of our trip, it certainly was.  For that we must thank the other members of our safari for the part they played in making it so.  Allan, Grace, Ian, Keith, Lin, Lyn, Mick, Pam, Pat, Terry and Tom.  We all got on so well together and had some great yarns and some real laughs.  None of it would have been possible without our driver, guide, cook and friend Chocko he was just unbelievable, his knowledge of Cape York, it’s people, Flora and Fauna was exceptional and how someone can cook such fantastic meals over a open fire we just find amazing.  Tom also we must thank for his contribution, his yarns on life “on the cape” were captivating, special thanks also to Terry who also played an important part, we were so pleased you managed to return to finish the trip.  We were privileged to be on the last Cape York trip by Billy Tea Safaris the licence to operate in the Cape York National Parks being sold to another company.

We asked the group if they would let us know of there comments, etc on the Safari, this is part of a email from Keith & Pat.

All images on this website are copyright of Alan and Jennifer Morris and may not be used without prior written permission.